вторник, 29 декабря 2015 г.

25 best home remedies for cleaning. Save money on household chemicals!

Cleaning the house can be fun! If you approach this matter with a certain ingenuity, you can feel like a real master of the purest of the universe. Knowing that you can bring everywhere perfect purity, using only home remedies will make cleaning more enjoyable. After all, you can save so much money on expensive household chemicals! A result of the exact satisfy you.
1. Cleansing of the oven is no longer a daunting task. Ammonia will help you make the surface of the radiant oven. You just have to put in a preheated oven glass of hot water and a cup of ammonia. Any dirt can be quickly removed after the procedure.

2. If you want to clean up the dishwasher, the usual vinegar will come to your aid. Just put a cup of vinegar into the dishwasher and including high temperature cleaning mode.

3. Shower Head will shine and begin great pass water again! Mixer shook overnight in a plastic bag filled with vinegar. In the morning everything will shine!

4. The pan will wash clean, if you're into it vylesh vinegar and razogreesh. In particularly difficult cases, the help and baking soda, it removes grime.

5. Wash the blender, you can easily! Just fill it with water and detergent and turned on. After a minute the blender itself will wash!

6. It sounds strange, but you can remove grease stains from the surface of the plate, using the oil! Put a few drops of vegetable oil on a cloth and wipe traces of fat.

7. To clean the fan, wrap it in a damp pillowcase. Pillowcase gather up all the accumulated dust.

8. Vinegar mixed with a 4 pill "Alka-Seltzer," is able to clean the clogged pipe. One cup of vinegar mixed with pills, went to a clogged drain. The result was not long in coming!

9. Clear silver can be warm water, mixed with salt and soda.

10. If grease stains sprinkle with chalk, they will become less noticeable. Take away the chalk stains with a damp cloth.

11. Dusty corners is best to wipe material with antistatic effect. This will protect the surface from further accumulation of dust.

12. Destroy the germs that have already managed to settle on your kitchen sponge. Just put it in the microwave for two minutes, all of the microbes die in agony.

13. The rubber roller will easily get rid of pet hair scattered around the house.

14. To remove dirt from the surface of the mattress and refresh it, pour in the alcohol spray or vodka. Sprinkle the mattress, and he visibly posvezheet soon!

15. Capacity for baking well cleaned using conventional foil and dishwashing detergent.

16. To make the grinder clean and remove odor, enough to grind it a little rice. For better effect, then wipe the grinder soda.

17. Vinegar - a wonderful tool for wiping dusty and dirty surfaces.

18. Wet shoes will dry quickly if you will insert into not only newspapers, but also bags of rice. They absorb moisture all unnecessary!

19. Vinegar and water - a great stain remover. Check out this fact and bring old stains on the carpet. After you wet the stain with vinegar, place a damp cloth on top. Hold the hot iron on it for several minutes. The spot will disappear before our eyes.

20. Baking soda and water and output spot, even very complex ones.

21. Small pieces can be assembled using bread. Now just no one cuts himself!

22. Leather furniture is not as difficult to maintain, as you think. Neutral shoe polish desired shade is suitable as a means to care for leather furniture.

23. Ventilation grilles will become much clearer if to wipe them with a cloth soaked in vinegar.

24. The wet paper towel will absorb all dirt from the grill, that was just to use.

25. Grapefruit and Lemon - fruits that are perfectly clean surface. Mound a little salt on a lemon or grapefruit, clean bathtub and sink. They are crystal clear! So do not rush to dispose of half a lemon, the juice of which you have already squeezed.

These simple tips will help any owner to make the house delightfully clean and comfortable. No unnecessary spending, use everything you already have in your home!

воскресенье, 13 декабря 2015 г.

                                  Mats rope

These are interesting mats can be made of sisal or jute rope. Perfect for those who need a mat is not a standard size or shape.

The rope can be of varying thickness. In my opinion optimally 8 mm, but there are 6mm or 11mm, and even thicker.

The search led me to a few options:

1. rope glued together with an adhesive gun (fast but not firmly).

2. Staple, such as sisal string or twine coarse linen, it turns out beautifully! (but time consuming).

3. First of rope to tie the hook strip, and then have to form circles and sew them. So get yourself a rug thicker and stronger. (very time consuming)

If you use a gun: the rope is wound around and glued. Less - high consumption of glue and perhaps short-lived. This option is more suitable small products, which will not go, so to speak for the beauty.

In the second embodiment, during the rope twisting individual stitches sewn in the same manner interconnected finished parts.
       How to stick the tiles in the kitchen

It is time the long-awaited repairs in the kitchen, which can be made with their own hands, without the help of professionals. The process of sticking tiles do not require special skills. - Your task is to follow the clear recommendations and excellent results will be forthcoming. It is not necessary to put the tiles on the wall in the kitchen, you can make a kind of "apron".

You will need
- Metal profiles;
- Tin snips;
- Tile and Bulgarian;
- Adhesive mixture;
- primer;
- level;
- Spatulas;
- Grout;
- tile;
- Dowels;
- Crosses for joints;
- Building area.

Instructions
1.Podgotovte all the necessary tools and start the preparation of the walls. Repel old tiles and clean off the spatula old adhesive coating to the base of the wall. If the walls had wallpaper or putty, remove it completely and wash the walls of whitewash. Use a level to check the evenness of the wall vertically and horizontally. In the case of large deviations have plastered walls.
2. On the walls are made of purified notches with a hammer or chisel. Then walk or acrylic latex primer. Leave to dry wall on one or two hours. If you decide to glue tiles on the in situ concrete, whereas the surface should be pre-coated "Betonokontaktom" (drying time varies from twelve to eighteen hours).
3. In the future, depending on the height of the furniture that you will install, specify the lower level tile. Measure from the bottom of about 85-95 centimeters and mark. Using a long level draw a horizontal line across the length of the planned installation of the tiles.
4.Vozmite metal profile, measure the desired length, cut with scissors, metal and attach it to the wall in the level. This profile will help you to maintain a perfect strictly horizontal level, which is an important factor in laying the apron.
5.Razvedite small amount of adhesive with water according to the specified instructions and mix thoroughly. Begin to lay the tiles from the bottom up, from the visible angle. Apply the adhesive with a notched trowel to the point where further be laid tiles. Narrow trowel, apply a thin layer of glue on the back of the tile and set it in place. Flick push her face down into the solution and a rubber mallet.
6.Vystavite strictly tiles horizontally and vertically with a short level. If it is not level, remove it with a spatula, or enclose the adhesive as needed. First install the tiles perfectly and flawlessly, as they will depend on the outcome of your work. Pay attention at the picture, the back of the tile has a pointer arrow.
7.Zatem side put a second tile and check the level in the same way. Install crosses between neighboring ribs. Use your fingers to make sure the seam, the transition should not be felt. In the first place the third tile, check the angle between the horizontal and the vertical face of a square. Likewise Lay the remaining tiles, do not forget to use the crosses.
8. In the process of laying tile, you will need to trim it to size. This can be done using the lever Tile or grinders. At the end styling apron remove all the crosses and clean the joints between the tiles, replace the crosses that the seams will not warp in the process of drying.
9.Spustya day after laying tile, you can safely proceed to the grout. Dissolve the dry mixture with water until thick sour cream (use a mixture in small portions, as it is efficient for twenty minutes). Moisten the joints and apply grout with a rubber spatula pressed movements. Surplus remove toward the seam, after twenty minutes, wipe with a slightly damp cloth.

note
How to stick tile. The method of applying any adhesive the same. For this type of work is best suited with a notched trowel. In choosing the adhesive for a particular tile you tell Sales. Let's get down to the application of adhesive on the part of the wall where we will glue tiles. Cover the wall with glue is needed. Notched trowel "take away" the tile adhesive on the surface of the wall. Thus the adhesive layer should have a thickness of approximately 2.5 mm.

Helpful advice
Before you glue the tiles on the wall you need to do preparatory work, remove old paint, make the incision, if necessary, to align the wall primed. Gluing the tiles to the wall are two ways, from the center of the wall, in which case the angles of the tiles will be at the same distance and angle from the distal, then trimming the tiles will be minimal. Dilute tile adhesive, and using a special notched trowel, apply it first to the wall, 1 to 2 square meters, and then on the tiles.

вторник, 8 декабря 2015 г.

                How to glue serpyanku

Serpyanka - a reinforcing adhesive tape, which serves to hold the plaster or plaster to the joints of the two surfaces, the corners of the walls and ceiling joints. Sale serpyanka rolls of a width of 4-5 cm and a length of 10-50 meters.

You will need
- Serpyanka,
- Painting knife
- Spatula PVA glue,
- Putty.

Instructions

1 While one side serpyanka has adhesive backing, still surface on which you are going to fix serpyanku should be primed ground. Then the reinforcing tape is held firmly on the seam, and you can easily cause her layer of putty.

2 serpyanka gibsokarton to mount the first base layer of putty. First apply the base plaster on the seam between the two sheets of plaster and then a spatula swipe from the top to the bottom, to collect any excess mixture. Spatula should overlap the grooves on the drywall about 5 cm on each side of the sheet. Allow the putty to dry.

3 Once the base coat is dry, it proshkurte and re prime the soil. Then cut from the roll serpyanka strip of the desired length and glue it to the surface of the joint, guiding and pressing the tape with a spatula.

4 When serpyanka will be glued to the base plaster, zashpaklyuyte its finishing putty. Do not try to put a layer thicker than the lower layer of putty, the less likely it crumble out. Allow the putty to dry finish, then it proshkurte and prime ground.

5 If serpyanka not "listen" and constantly falling off the wall, you have a method that will help you deal with this scourge. Take PVA glue and densely promazhte seam, which are going to be reinforced. Then Put the tape to the seam, press it with a brush and drive down the brush, adding glue if necessary.

6 is not easy to paste reinforced tape in the corner, so do not try to glue it over the entire length of the right angle. Cut the tape into strips, and then attach each strip, landing it on the plaster. Each successive strip is glued to the previous lap.

7 Furthermore serpyanku reinforced building exists bandage "serpyanka", which has a fine structure, but the principle of its adhesion to the surface of the same. Spread the seam with white glue, apply a bandage, gently flatten the surface and stick, pushing it into the adhesive. Then again to apply glue for strength. After the bandage is dry, proceed to putty.
                Secrets to care for flowers

The rest period (autumn, winter) should not be fed abundantly flower - can pull the stalk.
When planting, so that later on the plants are not attacked by pests in the ground is necessary to add 3-4 match head.

If there were pests, it is necessary to spray the stems and leaves of the plant with water, in which a piece of soap is dissolved and add a few drops of alcohol.
Excellent dressing, from which flowers grow before our eyes, and bloom profusely, obtained from onion peel. It is necessary to make it cool, then dilute with water 1:10, and the infusion of the flowers watered 2 times a month. -
Home flowers from well-fed sandpaper banana, chopped add water, let them stand up and 2 days polivat.Listochki turn green.

How to revive the potted plants.
Found this article in the diary on LiveJournal, maybe someone will come in handy.
Perish room in front of the flower and the chances of saving it was less and less. And then I remembered the advice that has long received from an enthusiastic grower.
All the sick and poor developing plants watered with the following solution: 5-6 egg whites pour 1 liter of warm water and infuse week. Then, dilute 10 l of water.
I watered this miracle solution not only dying flower, but all the plants. I must say, the smell of the solution was not entirely pleasant. In this case, you can temporarily bring flowers to the balcony. and if you live in a private house on the street.
The result was truly amazing: my flowers if tasted the elixir
youth - leaves glistened, went young shoots.

Therapeutic cocktail onion flower

Found here is a recipe for pot plants.
If my room flowers "grustneyut" in his eyes, I cook for them, "invigorating cocktail" - a decoction of onion peel.

Cook it very simple, and most importantly - "ingredients" are always at hand.
In enamel ware I put a handful of husks, pour 1.5 liters of boiling water, boil for 5-7 minutes, to give infuse for two hours, strain and cool. I sprayed with this broth plants and topsoil in order to prophylactic disinfection. Potted flowers perceive the broth, as a full fertilizer. I "spoil" their plants usually once every two months, and if suddenly they had "lost the mood" more often.
Onion broth contains a complete set of trace elements and is suitable for both indoor plants and for garden.
But remember that every time the broth will have to cook again - it can not be stored.
How to update the original wooden floor, paint it on a template.

Sometimes, instead of changing the old wooden flooring, simply update it. And if you think a repaint tree, then we will tell you how to do it the original way.

So, what is it? To paint the original floor color can be achieved by a particular pattern. For example, in the form of simple or squares of a chessboard.

1. First you have to gently get rid of the old wood finishes, for grinding, use a sponge or a grinding machine. Once you have done this, wipe the floor clean with a damp cloth and let dry.

2. Between all this, plug the space under the door to the room so that the room is not blew dust.

3. Start painting the floor with the base substrate. Starting with the opposite side of the room from the door. The base layer of paint must be lighter and your primary color to be painted surface squares. Walls spend a brush, then paint the entire surface of the roller.

4. Let the paint dry completely, at least during the night. If necessary, walk the second layer of paint.

5. Now you can create a pattern on the floor. As we said above, the simplest option - it is the squares of the two colors in the form of a chessboard. One color you already dealt - is the foundation. The second color you create squares.

Start counting should be the most prominent in the room wall. Estimate the number of squares that fit along the wall. Then divide the length of the wall on the side of the width of the squares. Mark with a pencil the boundaries of these squares. From these squares, raschertite the floor grid of squares, using your template.

6. Now the lines lined with a template you need to glue the contours of squares of thin adhesive tape. This should be done so that those squares that you need to paint the paste on their outer contour. See figure. Gray lines - this is your pencil markings and blue lines - a Scotch. The dots indicate those squares that will not be painted. You can mark crosses those squares that you do not paint, then to avoid confusion.

Once you have pasted adhesive tape, slide a knife around the edges of the tape so that it was firmly pressed to the floor without any changes and blistering.

7. After the adhesive tape is fixed on the floor, erase unnecessary pencil stains wet sponge. Generally, clean the surface to make it clean.

8. Begin to paint the squares brush. Start with the edges: Enter subtle movements of the brush to the floor adhesive tape to paint from getting under the Scotch. Then you can walk around the square of the remaining mini-roller. Each stroke of the start of adhesive tape and pull inward. Perform movement to the side boards.

9. When the color of the squares over, wait until it dries. Then remove the tape, pulling it up to the side at an angle from the paint.

10. At the end apply a layer of water-based polyurethane.

среда, 2 декабря 2015 г.

           How to install the air conditioner

Before starting work on the installation, obtain the necessary installation tools and accessories, and then carefully read the technical documentation of the manufacturer specific model of an air conditioner.

1. Selecting a location for air conditioning
Make sure that the location of the air conditioner would not adversely affect its performance and technical characteristics.

eleven. Selecting a location for the indoor unit

The place should be durable enough to withstand the weight of the air conditioner
The location should provide good air circulation
The location must be convenient for water drainage. That part of the drainage pipe, which is located inside the room should be as short as possible. Also, make sure that the rejection drain pipe will not cause nuisance to neighbors.
The location must be convenient for adjustment and maintenance
Location should not be exposed to direct sunlight
Near the inlet and outlet ports, there should be no obstacles

12. Selecting a location for the outdoor unit

The location should be such that the outflowing hot air from the unit does not cause nuisance to neighbors

When choosing a place to be considered occurs when the air conditioner noise
The installation site should have a solid foundation. Fragile foundation of safe, in addition, it may be the cause of excessive noise. Do not place the outdoor unit directly on the ground.
Avoid places where the outdoor unit can be covered with snow.
The location should be such that the heat exchanger has been implemented effectively
The location must be convenient for inspection and maintenance
Please note that each model has air conditioning maximum permissible length of the refrigerant piping and the maximum vertical drop.

2. Drill holes in the wall
Through the drilled hole in the wall pass refrigerant piping, drain piping, electrical wiring, etc., connecting the inner and outer unit of a split system. Selecting a location for the hole: mounting the rear panel has a special label showing the possible locations of the holes. If you choose to use these provisions need to be tagged. The hole diameter is typically 6.5 cm.

2.1. Drilling holes
Drill hole using a circular saw, punch or hit the chisel, with the work should be done on both sides of the wall. When drilling holes be careful, because the inside walls can be positioned beams, wiring, gas lines, etc.

2.2. Protective pipe
If the sharp metal parts or wires placed inside the wall, damage the insulation of wiring may cause short-circuiting. To avoid this it is necessary to use the protective tube. In addition, the hole in the wall should have a slight slant to the outside, in the rain so it did not get wet.

3. Wire installation indoors
After removing the insulation from the wire, insert the wire ends as deeply as possible into the slots.

4. Mounting the conditioner

4.1. The indoor unit

1. Must be set straight. Otherwise, water could leak
2. After installation of the indoor unit on the rear panel mounting push it to its hooks firmly entered the rear panel.

4.2. Outdoor unit

1. Do not install the outdoor unit directly on the ground. Instead, it must be placed on a small rack. You should also make sure that the air conditioner was located exactly.
2. Do not install the air conditioner outdoor units in places where there is a possibility of leakage of explosive gases.

5. Pipeline

5.1. Selection of copper pipes
Only use copper pipes specified in the manufacturer's installation instructions for the thickness made from oxygen-free copper and having no welded joints.

5.2. Cutting tube
For cutting tube cutter it should be used. Using a hacksaw can lead to the ingress of swarf in the tube, as well as the rough cut, which will make it impossible to flaring, and this, in turn, will lead to a gas leak or malfunction of the air conditioner. In determining the length of the pipeline connecting the inner and outer blocks let a small margin (0,5-1m). This will reduce stress on the joints, resulting from vibration and so on. For wall-mounted air conditioners extra length of narrow and wide pipes varies, and this should be borne in mind when cutting pipes.

5.3. Deburring cut end of the pipe
After cutting the tube by means of the pipe cutter on its inner side remain burrs. Before you flare the burrs must be removed. When deburring tube should be directed downwards as metal chips from entering the compressor air conditioner removes it from the system.

5.4. Beading
It is important that the inner surface of the flared end of the tube was shiny and had no scratches.

5.5. Pipeline sheathing
Regardless of the conditioner models wide and narrow lines must be insulated separately. In conditioners, cooling only, both broad and narrow lines are cooled during operation. The lack of isolation may cause scratches on the surface of the condensate lines, which in turn, will cause the loss of heat. In units working on the heating and cooling, broad and narrow lines are heated during operation. Both pipelines must be insulated in order to avoid the impact of heat to the surrounding air.

5.6 Precautions for flexible pipes
If the pipe will have a crack, it will adversely affect the operational and technical characteristics of the air conditioner. To the pipe is not broken, it is recommended to bend by hand. For bending pipes with diameters greater than 1/2 inch is recommended to use a tube bender.

6. Connecting pipe

Three rules: dryness, cleanliness and tightness.

1. Dryness. Make sure that the pipeline does not get wet.
2. Clean. Make sure that the pipeline did not get dirt, sand, etc.
3. Tightness. Make sure there are no refrigerant leaks. The application of a special sealant on the joints is a good way to prevent leaks.

6.1 Precautions when connecting piping.
To simplify connection is recommended to connect a pipe, and then narrow. Align coupling with union nut and carefully by hand a few times, turn the nut so that it engages smoothly with the union. Then, using a wrench, tighten the nut demanded effort. When working with bolts diameter 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) it is necessary to use a special key to the torque (16,5 Nm).

6.2 Traps Water
If external power is higher than the domestic, for the protection of water dripping through the line and getting water into the room, you must install a special trap.

7. Vent
Air removal is a procedure in which from a pipeline connecting the indoor and outdoor units, as well as from the air of the indoor unit is removed.

7.1. What caused the need for removing the air?
If bleeding is not made, it enters the cooling circuit, resulting in a sharp increase in pressure, increased power consumption and reduced power conditioner.
In addition, the moisture contained in the air can damage the insulation of the compressor motor and to the decomposition of refrigerant that will dramatically reduce the service life of the air conditioner.

7.2 The procedure for removal of air

1. Make sure that all pipes are properly connected
2. Connect a pressure gauge and a vacuum pump
3. Open the low-pressure valve
4. Turn on the vacuum pump and pressurize to - 101 kPa (it takes at least 15 minutes).
5. Hold the low-pressure valve in the fully open position, turn off the vacuum pump
6. Open the service valves wide and narrow pipelines
7. Disconnect manometer
8. Place the lid on the service valves wide and narrow pipelines
9. Screw the union nut of the pump nozzle.

8. Check for leaks
To check the reliability of pipe connections apply to these places lather. If leakage at this location bubbles appear.

9. Opening the service valve
After the leak check, fully open all service valves.

10. Connect the wiring
Strip the ends of the wire (about 15mm), and as far as possible, insert them into the appropriate connectors.

11. Installation of drainage pipes

11.1. Drain pipe Indoor
Set the indoor unit so that it is smooth and had no tilt forward or backward. Make sure the drain pipe has a downward slope. Make sure the drain pipe has no traps. If the drain pipe has long horizontal sections, insulate it tough PVC.

11.2. Implementation of the drain outside

If there are no more obstacles, no more need
If there is a need to install a special drainage system. In this case, use the supplied specifically for this connection and the knee cap. Outdoor unit must be installed on the stand, connecting to the knee does not touch the ground. Connecting the knee cap and placed inside a cardboard box.

11.3. Mud
As a result, clogging of the drain hose or the drain pan contamination may leak water. Contamination is usually caused by the following factors:

Temperature of 25-30 degrees Celsius
Water retention
Air pollution products of human activity
Presence in the water of certain fungi and bacteria. Therefore, it is important to make sure that the drain hose is directed downward; should also ventilate the room regularly and keep it clean.

12. Exterior finish

12.1. Reinforcement tape
Connect with a pipe, narrow piping, electrical cables and drain hose, then wrap them Ramiro tape, starting from the bottom and moving up. Each subsequent layer of tape should overlap about half the previous layer.

12.2. Isolation of the compounds
Do not forget to insulate the joints and bandaging their reinforcement tape. If the connectors for insulated, they will accumulate condensate.

12.3. Securing the pipeline
To fix the pipe is recommended to use the mounting clamps.

12.4. Applying sealant
Treat sealing all open space done in the wall of the hole, so that no water gets inside, and the wind is not blowing.

12.5. Cleaning
Finally, do the cleaning inside and outside the premises. This conditioner installation completed.
             How to insulate a loggia

To ensure the comfort of the apartment with an open balcony, must be thorough warm loggia - its floor, ceiling and walls.

How warm and how it depends on the result you want. More precisely, on how you want to insulate a loggia or balcony. Insulate a loggia is much easier and cheaper, but the warming of the same balcony - an event very costly.
In the heat loss affects thousands of factors:
• The party, which leaves the balcony (south or north);
• Do glazed balconies adjacent neighbors (just below, above);
• Masonry house;
• How well do drown in the house;

Proceedings
For insulation used a variety of materials - from 100- and even 150-mm mats of mineral wool (both hard and soft) to polystyrene and high-performance insulation foam from the modern, the thickness of which is much smaller.
Decorative finishing of the outer parapet plastic siding panels or also further warms the balcony.
All wooden parts are treated against rot and bacteria antiseptic (antiseptic People - linseed oil). The sale of a number of different antiseptic formulations.
Sex on the balcony covered evrodoskoy in appearance is not the board and plates made from a variety of wood, thickness from 25 to 40mm.
Such floor itself is good, but it will not be worse, if it lay a linoleum or carpet.

How to insulate gazebo:
• Turn the external enclosure (parapet) in a solid wall
• Set a special glazing system for loggias
• carry out waterproofing work
• insulate the loggia around perimetru- wall, ceiling, floor
• solve the problem heating in the cold time of the year I

The fundamental basis is warming pomescheniya- the only way it can be turned into a full-fledged land of the living space.

The weakest link is usually an external enclosure loggia, which is in contact with the street, that is, the parapet. He has to pass light and at the same time prevent the penetration of moisture, noise and cold.
Well, if the parapet of bricks, the common option - reinforced concrete slab, which is heat preservation and protection against noise and the rain is not conducive. Therefore, first of all, it should be as carefully as possible to close up the gap. For example, lay bricks, and if the gap is narrow - concreted.

The next task is more difficult - to make a parapet capital; it will have to load the window glazing, and this design has an impressive weight.

Stove, which keeps loggia, designed for a specific load. If the carrier capacity of balconies in old houses - 200 kg / m2, new - 400 kg / m2, then lodge boundary considerably higher. By building an additional internal wall can not be closer to the extreme limit, it is better to leave the "stock" to avoid an emergency situation, ie collapse. Brick and solid houses more "robust", but if the house panel, you have to be extremely careful. In any case, before you start any work on the balcony though, even on the balcony, you should contact the housing office and the engineer will tell the exact parameters that are allowed in a particular building. Typically, an additional internal wall constructed of lightweight materials: brick, concrete blocks or slabs.
Incidentally, it is very warm materials and such "parapet" wall, for example, a foam block (thickness is 7.5-10 cm), is 2.5 times stronger to resist cold than ordinary wall.

What should be the waterproofing
• maximum water repellency
• resistance to atmospheric and aggressive influences, that is, to mechanical, chemical and thermal loads
• environmental cleanliness and safety
• thermal stability and fire safety
• durability
• improving or maintaining the strength of the adjacent base from which she will be in contact
• permeability
• good adhesion (adhesion) with the material - contactee
• antiseptic properties, resistance to microflora
• low cost

If, nevertheless, a balcony, it can not do without the installation of the metal support structure.
The design is set against the parapet and have it opirajut glazing system. The very design of non-severe and set fast as you're done. True, this support system has special elements designed into the loggia which give it rigidity. They are quite large, and by choosing this option obviously need to agree with the fact that under his feet around the perimeter of the lodge will be a kind of "sills". Furthermore, it is known as a metal conducting cold. The design of the metal elements are always bridges on which the cold sneaks inside.

Conventionally, waterproofing materials belong to several classes: bitumen-polymer (mastic, roll insulation); film type, forming a protective layer on the substrate surface; insulation penetrating.

Everyone knows the usual roofing material on a cardboard base, impregnated with bitumen construction, it is often used in the past. Not because he was such a quality, and due to the lack of other options. He brings a lot of trouble, but its main drawback was short-lived. Today in the course of "waterproofing polymer-bitumen, modified roll (surfaced) material" that resembles roofing material, but the resemblance is only superficial.

In this isolation is completely different basis -Rugged not rotting, waterproof, glass-loknistye (glass fabric) or synthetic (polyester) materials using a polymer-bitumen binder. The best in this class roll insulation with polyester base, it is "mobile" and is not afraid to temperature changes. However, all these materials are too "dirty", require considerable experience in building the circulation and used in the regeneration of loggias except as an exception.

Film types are conventional polyethylene films of different densities. Separate good word deserves the most modern kind of waterproofing - penetrating. This whole group of materials such as cement or polymer based. There are two main types: liquid primer, which is applied to the surface carefully conventional roller or brush, and dry cement mixture, which was mixed with water and used in the form of a plaster layer of 2 to 5 mm.

Just enough waterproofing necessary steam and windscreen. In the first case, an paroizoliruyuschuyu film.

Even ordinary heat insulating layer to protect from excess moisture and steam and will last up to 30-40 years. It is important to observe the manufacturer's assembly and installation, and not to be confused with the wrong face of the (many-sided vapor barrier materials have conductivity of vapor, and if the parties confuse the insulated construction will turn into an isolated, that it is detrimental).
The material must be laid without bubbles and have ventilation holes. With a sharp decrease in temperature condensate - a normal phenomenon, and vents to help fight it. Water vapor retarder film can help protect an order of magnitude. Optimally suited for these purposes, a 200 micron film.