среда, 2 декабря 2015 г.

             How to insulate a loggia

To ensure the comfort of the apartment with an open balcony, must be thorough warm loggia - its floor, ceiling and walls.

How warm and how it depends on the result you want. More precisely, on how you want to insulate a loggia or balcony. Insulate a loggia is much easier and cheaper, but the warming of the same balcony - an event very costly.
In the heat loss affects thousands of factors:
• The party, which leaves the balcony (south or north);
• Do glazed balconies adjacent neighbors (just below, above);
• Masonry house;
• How well do drown in the house;

Proceedings
For insulation used a variety of materials - from 100- and even 150-mm mats of mineral wool (both hard and soft) to polystyrene and high-performance insulation foam from the modern, the thickness of which is much smaller.
Decorative finishing of the outer parapet plastic siding panels or also further warms the balcony.
All wooden parts are treated against rot and bacteria antiseptic (antiseptic People - linseed oil). The sale of a number of different antiseptic formulations.
Sex on the balcony covered evrodoskoy in appearance is not the board and plates made from a variety of wood, thickness from 25 to 40mm.
Such floor itself is good, but it will not be worse, if it lay a linoleum or carpet.

How to insulate gazebo:
• Turn the external enclosure (parapet) in a solid wall
• Set a special glazing system for loggias
• carry out waterproofing work
• insulate the loggia around perimetru- wall, ceiling, floor
• solve the problem heating in the cold time of the year I

The fundamental basis is warming pomescheniya- the only way it can be turned into a full-fledged land of the living space.

The weakest link is usually an external enclosure loggia, which is in contact with the street, that is, the parapet. He has to pass light and at the same time prevent the penetration of moisture, noise and cold.
Well, if the parapet of bricks, the common option - reinforced concrete slab, which is heat preservation and protection against noise and the rain is not conducive. Therefore, first of all, it should be as carefully as possible to close up the gap. For example, lay bricks, and if the gap is narrow - concreted.

The next task is more difficult - to make a parapet capital; it will have to load the window glazing, and this design has an impressive weight.

Stove, which keeps loggia, designed for a specific load. If the carrier capacity of balconies in old houses - 200 kg / m2, new - 400 kg / m2, then lodge boundary considerably higher. By building an additional internal wall can not be closer to the extreme limit, it is better to leave the "stock" to avoid an emergency situation, ie collapse. Brick and solid houses more "robust", but if the house panel, you have to be extremely careful. In any case, before you start any work on the balcony though, even on the balcony, you should contact the housing office and the engineer will tell the exact parameters that are allowed in a particular building. Typically, an additional internal wall constructed of lightweight materials: brick, concrete blocks or slabs.
Incidentally, it is very warm materials and such "parapet" wall, for example, a foam block (thickness is 7.5-10 cm), is 2.5 times stronger to resist cold than ordinary wall.

What should be the waterproofing
• maximum water repellency
• resistance to atmospheric and aggressive influences, that is, to mechanical, chemical and thermal loads
• environmental cleanliness and safety
• thermal stability and fire safety
• durability
• improving or maintaining the strength of the adjacent base from which she will be in contact
• permeability
• good adhesion (adhesion) with the material - contactee
• antiseptic properties, resistance to microflora
• low cost

If, nevertheless, a balcony, it can not do without the installation of the metal support structure.
The design is set against the parapet and have it opirajut glazing system. The very design of non-severe and set fast as you're done. True, this support system has special elements designed into the loggia which give it rigidity. They are quite large, and by choosing this option obviously need to agree with the fact that under his feet around the perimeter of the lodge will be a kind of "sills". Furthermore, it is known as a metal conducting cold. The design of the metal elements are always bridges on which the cold sneaks inside.

Conventionally, waterproofing materials belong to several classes: bitumen-polymer (mastic, roll insulation); film type, forming a protective layer on the substrate surface; insulation penetrating.

Everyone knows the usual roofing material on a cardboard base, impregnated with bitumen construction, it is often used in the past. Not because he was such a quality, and due to the lack of other options. He brings a lot of trouble, but its main drawback was short-lived. Today in the course of "waterproofing polymer-bitumen, modified roll (surfaced) material" that resembles roofing material, but the resemblance is only superficial.

In this isolation is completely different basis -Rugged not rotting, waterproof, glass-loknistye (glass fabric) or synthetic (polyester) materials using a polymer-bitumen binder. The best in this class roll insulation with polyester base, it is "mobile" and is not afraid to temperature changes. However, all these materials are too "dirty", require considerable experience in building the circulation and used in the regeneration of loggias except as an exception.

Film types are conventional polyethylene films of different densities. Separate good word deserves the most modern kind of waterproofing - penetrating. This whole group of materials such as cement or polymer based. There are two main types: liquid primer, which is applied to the surface carefully conventional roller or brush, and dry cement mixture, which was mixed with water and used in the form of a plaster layer of 2 to 5 mm.

Just enough waterproofing necessary steam and windscreen. In the first case, an paroizoliruyuschuyu film.

Even ordinary heat insulating layer to protect from excess moisture and steam and will last up to 30-40 years. It is important to observe the manufacturer's assembly and installation, and not to be confused with the wrong face of the (many-sided vapor barrier materials have conductivity of vapor, and if the parties confuse the insulated construction will turn into an isolated, that it is detrimental).
The material must be laid without bubbles and have ventilation holes. With a sharp decrease in temperature condensate - a normal phenomenon, and vents to help fight it. Water vapor retarder film can help protect an order of magnitude. Optimally suited for these purposes, a 200 micron film.

Комментариев нет:

Отправить комментарий