вторник, 29 декабря 2015 г.

25 best home remedies for cleaning. Save money on household chemicals!

Cleaning the house can be fun! If you approach this matter with a certain ingenuity, you can feel like a real master of the purest of the universe. Knowing that you can bring everywhere perfect purity, using only home remedies will make cleaning more enjoyable. After all, you can save so much money on expensive household chemicals! A result of the exact satisfy you.
1. Cleansing of the oven is no longer a daunting task. Ammonia will help you make the surface of the radiant oven. You just have to put in a preheated oven glass of hot water and a cup of ammonia. Any dirt can be quickly removed after the procedure.

2. If you want to clean up the dishwasher, the usual vinegar will come to your aid. Just put a cup of vinegar into the dishwasher and including high temperature cleaning mode.

3. Shower Head will shine and begin great pass water again! Mixer shook overnight in a plastic bag filled with vinegar. In the morning everything will shine!

4. The pan will wash clean, if you're into it vylesh vinegar and razogreesh. In particularly difficult cases, the help and baking soda, it removes grime.

5. Wash the blender, you can easily! Just fill it with water and detergent and turned on. After a minute the blender itself will wash!

6. It sounds strange, but you can remove grease stains from the surface of the plate, using the oil! Put a few drops of vegetable oil on a cloth and wipe traces of fat.

7. To clean the fan, wrap it in a damp pillowcase. Pillowcase gather up all the accumulated dust.

8. Vinegar mixed with a 4 pill "Alka-Seltzer," is able to clean the clogged pipe. One cup of vinegar mixed with pills, went to a clogged drain. The result was not long in coming!

9. Clear silver can be warm water, mixed with salt and soda.

10. If grease stains sprinkle with chalk, they will become less noticeable. Take away the chalk stains with a damp cloth.

11. Dusty corners is best to wipe material with antistatic effect. This will protect the surface from further accumulation of dust.

12. Destroy the germs that have already managed to settle on your kitchen sponge. Just put it in the microwave for two minutes, all of the microbes die in agony.

13. The rubber roller will easily get rid of pet hair scattered around the house.

14. To remove dirt from the surface of the mattress and refresh it, pour in the alcohol spray or vodka. Sprinkle the mattress, and he visibly posvezheet soon!

15. Capacity for baking well cleaned using conventional foil and dishwashing detergent.

16. To make the grinder clean and remove odor, enough to grind it a little rice. For better effect, then wipe the grinder soda.

17. Vinegar - a wonderful tool for wiping dusty and dirty surfaces.

18. Wet shoes will dry quickly if you will insert into not only newspapers, but also bags of rice. They absorb moisture all unnecessary!

19. Vinegar and water - a great stain remover. Check out this fact and bring old stains on the carpet. After you wet the stain with vinegar, place a damp cloth on top. Hold the hot iron on it for several minutes. The spot will disappear before our eyes.

20. Baking soda and water and output spot, even very complex ones.

21. Small pieces can be assembled using bread. Now just no one cuts himself!

22. Leather furniture is not as difficult to maintain, as you think. Neutral shoe polish desired shade is suitable as a means to care for leather furniture.

23. Ventilation grilles will become much clearer if to wipe them with a cloth soaked in vinegar.

24. The wet paper towel will absorb all dirt from the grill, that was just to use.

25. Grapefruit and Lemon - fruits that are perfectly clean surface. Mound a little salt on a lemon or grapefruit, clean bathtub and sink. They are crystal clear! So do not rush to dispose of half a lemon, the juice of which you have already squeezed.

These simple tips will help any owner to make the house delightfully clean and comfortable. No unnecessary spending, use everything you already have in your home!

воскресенье, 13 декабря 2015 г.

                                  Mats rope

These are interesting mats can be made of sisal or jute rope. Perfect for those who need a mat is not a standard size or shape.

The rope can be of varying thickness. In my opinion optimally 8 mm, but there are 6mm or 11mm, and even thicker.

The search led me to a few options:

1. rope glued together with an adhesive gun (fast but not firmly).

2. Staple, such as sisal string or twine coarse linen, it turns out beautifully! (but time consuming).

3. First of rope to tie the hook strip, and then have to form circles and sew them. So get yourself a rug thicker and stronger. (very time consuming)

If you use a gun: the rope is wound around and glued. Less - high consumption of glue and perhaps short-lived. This option is more suitable small products, which will not go, so to speak for the beauty.

In the second embodiment, during the rope twisting individual stitches sewn in the same manner interconnected finished parts.
       How to stick the tiles in the kitchen

It is time the long-awaited repairs in the kitchen, which can be made with their own hands, without the help of professionals. The process of sticking tiles do not require special skills. - Your task is to follow the clear recommendations and excellent results will be forthcoming. It is not necessary to put the tiles on the wall in the kitchen, you can make a kind of "apron".

You will need
- Metal profiles;
- Tin snips;
- Tile and Bulgarian;
- Adhesive mixture;
- primer;
- level;
- Spatulas;
- Grout;
- tile;
- Dowels;
- Crosses for joints;
- Building area.

Instructions
1.Podgotovte all the necessary tools and start the preparation of the walls. Repel old tiles and clean off the spatula old adhesive coating to the base of the wall. If the walls had wallpaper or putty, remove it completely and wash the walls of whitewash. Use a level to check the evenness of the wall vertically and horizontally. In the case of large deviations have plastered walls.
2. On the walls are made of purified notches with a hammer or chisel. Then walk or acrylic latex primer. Leave to dry wall on one or two hours. If you decide to glue tiles on the in situ concrete, whereas the surface should be pre-coated "Betonokontaktom" (drying time varies from twelve to eighteen hours).
3. In the future, depending on the height of the furniture that you will install, specify the lower level tile. Measure from the bottom of about 85-95 centimeters and mark. Using a long level draw a horizontal line across the length of the planned installation of the tiles.
4.Vozmite metal profile, measure the desired length, cut with scissors, metal and attach it to the wall in the level. This profile will help you to maintain a perfect strictly horizontal level, which is an important factor in laying the apron.
5.Razvedite small amount of adhesive with water according to the specified instructions and mix thoroughly. Begin to lay the tiles from the bottom up, from the visible angle. Apply the adhesive with a notched trowel to the point where further be laid tiles. Narrow trowel, apply a thin layer of glue on the back of the tile and set it in place. Flick push her face down into the solution and a rubber mallet.
6.Vystavite strictly tiles horizontally and vertically with a short level. If it is not level, remove it with a spatula, or enclose the adhesive as needed. First install the tiles perfectly and flawlessly, as they will depend on the outcome of your work. Pay attention at the picture, the back of the tile has a pointer arrow.
7.Zatem side put a second tile and check the level in the same way. Install crosses between neighboring ribs. Use your fingers to make sure the seam, the transition should not be felt. In the first place the third tile, check the angle between the horizontal and the vertical face of a square. Likewise Lay the remaining tiles, do not forget to use the crosses.
8. In the process of laying tile, you will need to trim it to size. This can be done using the lever Tile or grinders. At the end styling apron remove all the crosses and clean the joints between the tiles, replace the crosses that the seams will not warp in the process of drying.
9.Spustya day after laying tile, you can safely proceed to the grout. Dissolve the dry mixture with water until thick sour cream (use a mixture in small portions, as it is efficient for twenty minutes). Moisten the joints and apply grout with a rubber spatula pressed movements. Surplus remove toward the seam, after twenty minutes, wipe with a slightly damp cloth.

note
How to stick tile. The method of applying any adhesive the same. For this type of work is best suited with a notched trowel. In choosing the adhesive for a particular tile you tell Sales. Let's get down to the application of adhesive on the part of the wall where we will glue tiles. Cover the wall with glue is needed. Notched trowel "take away" the tile adhesive on the surface of the wall. Thus the adhesive layer should have a thickness of approximately 2.5 mm.

Helpful advice
Before you glue the tiles on the wall you need to do preparatory work, remove old paint, make the incision, if necessary, to align the wall primed. Gluing the tiles to the wall are two ways, from the center of the wall, in which case the angles of the tiles will be at the same distance and angle from the distal, then trimming the tiles will be minimal. Dilute tile adhesive, and using a special notched trowel, apply it first to the wall, 1 to 2 square meters, and then on the tiles.

вторник, 8 декабря 2015 г.

                How to glue serpyanku

Serpyanka - a reinforcing adhesive tape, which serves to hold the plaster or plaster to the joints of the two surfaces, the corners of the walls and ceiling joints. Sale serpyanka rolls of a width of 4-5 cm and a length of 10-50 meters.

You will need
- Serpyanka,
- Painting knife
- Spatula PVA glue,
- Putty.

Instructions

1 While one side serpyanka has adhesive backing, still surface on which you are going to fix serpyanku should be primed ground. Then the reinforcing tape is held firmly on the seam, and you can easily cause her layer of putty.

2 serpyanka gibsokarton to mount the first base layer of putty. First apply the base plaster on the seam between the two sheets of plaster and then a spatula swipe from the top to the bottom, to collect any excess mixture. Spatula should overlap the grooves on the drywall about 5 cm on each side of the sheet. Allow the putty to dry.

3 Once the base coat is dry, it proshkurte and re prime the soil. Then cut from the roll serpyanka strip of the desired length and glue it to the surface of the joint, guiding and pressing the tape with a spatula.

4 When serpyanka will be glued to the base plaster, zashpaklyuyte its finishing putty. Do not try to put a layer thicker than the lower layer of putty, the less likely it crumble out. Allow the putty to dry finish, then it proshkurte and prime ground.

5 If serpyanka not "listen" and constantly falling off the wall, you have a method that will help you deal with this scourge. Take PVA glue and densely promazhte seam, which are going to be reinforced. Then Put the tape to the seam, press it with a brush and drive down the brush, adding glue if necessary.

6 is not easy to paste reinforced tape in the corner, so do not try to glue it over the entire length of the right angle. Cut the tape into strips, and then attach each strip, landing it on the plaster. Each successive strip is glued to the previous lap.

7 Furthermore serpyanku reinforced building exists bandage "serpyanka", which has a fine structure, but the principle of its adhesion to the surface of the same. Spread the seam with white glue, apply a bandage, gently flatten the surface and stick, pushing it into the adhesive. Then again to apply glue for strength. After the bandage is dry, proceed to putty.
                Secrets to care for flowers

The rest period (autumn, winter) should not be fed abundantly flower - can pull the stalk.
When planting, so that later on the plants are not attacked by pests in the ground is necessary to add 3-4 match head.

If there were pests, it is necessary to spray the stems and leaves of the plant with water, in which a piece of soap is dissolved and add a few drops of alcohol.
Excellent dressing, from which flowers grow before our eyes, and bloom profusely, obtained from onion peel. It is necessary to make it cool, then dilute with water 1:10, and the infusion of the flowers watered 2 times a month. -
Home flowers from well-fed sandpaper banana, chopped add water, let them stand up and 2 days polivat.Listochki turn green.

How to revive the potted plants.
Found this article in the diary on LiveJournal, maybe someone will come in handy.
Perish room in front of the flower and the chances of saving it was less and less. And then I remembered the advice that has long received from an enthusiastic grower.
All the sick and poor developing plants watered with the following solution: 5-6 egg whites pour 1 liter of warm water and infuse week. Then, dilute 10 l of water.
I watered this miracle solution not only dying flower, but all the plants. I must say, the smell of the solution was not entirely pleasant. In this case, you can temporarily bring flowers to the balcony. and if you live in a private house on the street.
The result was truly amazing: my flowers if tasted the elixir
youth - leaves glistened, went young shoots.

Therapeutic cocktail onion flower

Found here is a recipe for pot plants.
If my room flowers "grustneyut" in his eyes, I cook for them, "invigorating cocktail" - a decoction of onion peel.

Cook it very simple, and most importantly - "ingredients" are always at hand.
In enamel ware I put a handful of husks, pour 1.5 liters of boiling water, boil for 5-7 minutes, to give infuse for two hours, strain and cool. I sprayed with this broth plants and topsoil in order to prophylactic disinfection. Potted flowers perceive the broth, as a full fertilizer. I "spoil" their plants usually once every two months, and if suddenly they had "lost the mood" more often.
Onion broth contains a complete set of trace elements and is suitable for both indoor plants and for garden.
But remember that every time the broth will have to cook again - it can not be stored.
How to update the original wooden floor, paint it on a template.

Sometimes, instead of changing the old wooden flooring, simply update it. And if you think a repaint tree, then we will tell you how to do it the original way.

So, what is it? To paint the original floor color can be achieved by a particular pattern. For example, in the form of simple or squares of a chessboard.

1. First you have to gently get rid of the old wood finishes, for grinding, use a sponge or a grinding machine. Once you have done this, wipe the floor clean with a damp cloth and let dry.

2. Between all this, plug the space under the door to the room so that the room is not blew dust.

3. Start painting the floor with the base substrate. Starting with the opposite side of the room from the door. The base layer of paint must be lighter and your primary color to be painted surface squares. Walls spend a brush, then paint the entire surface of the roller.

4. Let the paint dry completely, at least during the night. If necessary, walk the second layer of paint.

5. Now you can create a pattern on the floor. As we said above, the simplest option - it is the squares of the two colors in the form of a chessboard. One color you already dealt - is the foundation. The second color you create squares.

Start counting should be the most prominent in the room wall. Estimate the number of squares that fit along the wall. Then divide the length of the wall on the side of the width of the squares. Mark with a pencil the boundaries of these squares. From these squares, raschertite the floor grid of squares, using your template.

6. Now the lines lined with a template you need to glue the contours of squares of thin adhesive tape. This should be done so that those squares that you need to paint the paste on their outer contour. See figure. Gray lines - this is your pencil markings and blue lines - a Scotch. The dots indicate those squares that will not be painted. You can mark crosses those squares that you do not paint, then to avoid confusion.

Once you have pasted adhesive tape, slide a knife around the edges of the tape so that it was firmly pressed to the floor without any changes and blistering.

7. After the adhesive tape is fixed on the floor, erase unnecessary pencil stains wet sponge. Generally, clean the surface to make it clean.

8. Begin to paint the squares brush. Start with the edges: Enter subtle movements of the brush to the floor adhesive tape to paint from getting under the Scotch. Then you can walk around the square of the remaining mini-roller. Each stroke of the start of adhesive tape and pull inward. Perform movement to the side boards.

9. When the color of the squares over, wait until it dries. Then remove the tape, pulling it up to the side at an angle from the paint.

10. At the end apply a layer of water-based polyurethane.

среда, 2 декабря 2015 г.

           How to install the air conditioner

Before starting work on the installation, obtain the necessary installation tools and accessories, and then carefully read the technical documentation of the manufacturer specific model of an air conditioner.

1. Selecting a location for air conditioning
Make sure that the location of the air conditioner would not adversely affect its performance and technical characteristics.

eleven. Selecting a location for the indoor unit

The place should be durable enough to withstand the weight of the air conditioner
The location should provide good air circulation
The location must be convenient for water drainage. That part of the drainage pipe, which is located inside the room should be as short as possible. Also, make sure that the rejection drain pipe will not cause nuisance to neighbors.
The location must be convenient for adjustment and maintenance
Location should not be exposed to direct sunlight
Near the inlet and outlet ports, there should be no obstacles

12. Selecting a location for the outdoor unit

The location should be such that the outflowing hot air from the unit does not cause nuisance to neighbors

When choosing a place to be considered occurs when the air conditioner noise
The installation site should have a solid foundation. Fragile foundation of safe, in addition, it may be the cause of excessive noise. Do not place the outdoor unit directly on the ground.
Avoid places where the outdoor unit can be covered with snow.
The location should be such that the heat exchanger has been implemented effectively
The location must be convenient for inspection and maintenance
Please note that each model has air conditioning maximum permissible length of the refrigerant piping and the maximum vertical drop.

2. Drill holes in the wall
Through the drilled hole in the wall pass refrigerant piping, drain piping, electrical wiring, etc., connecting the inner and outer unit of a split system. Selecting a location for the hole: mounting the rear panel has a special label showing the possible locations of the holes. If you choose to use these provisions need to be tagged. The hole diameter is typically 6.5 cm.

2.1. Drilling holes
Drill hole using a circular saw, punch or hit the chisel, with the work should be done on both sides of the wall. When drilling holes be careful, because the inside walls can be positioned beams, wiring, gas lines, etc.

2.2. Protective pipe
If the sharp metal parts or wires placed inside the wall, damage the insulation of wiring may cause short-circuiting. To avoid this it is necessary to use the protective tube. In addition, the hole in the wall should have a slight slant to the outside, in the rain so it did not get wet.

3. Wire installation indoors
After removing the insulation from the wire, insert the wire ends as deeply as possible into the slots.

4. Mounting the conditioner

4.1. The indoor unit

1. Must be set straight. Otherwise, water could leak
2. After installation of the indoor unit on the rear panel mounting push it to its hooks firmly entered the rear panel.

4.2. Outdoor unit

1. Do not install the outdoor unit directly on the ground. Instead, it must be placed on a small rack. You should also make sure that the air conditioner was located exactly.
2. Do not install the air conditioner outdoor units in places where there is a possibility of leakage of explosive gases.

5. Pipeline

5.1. Selection of copper pipes
Only use copper pipes specified in the manufacturer's installation instructions for the thickness made from oxygen-free copper and having no welded joints.

5.2. Cutting tube
For cutting tube cutter it should be used. Using a hacksaw can lead to the ingress of swarf in the tube, as well as the rough cut, which will make it impossible to flaring, and this, in turn, will lead to a gas leak or malfunction of the air conditioner. In determining the length of the pipeline connecting the inner and outer blocks let a small margin (0,5-1m). This will reduce stress on the joints, resulting from vibration and so on. For wall-mounted air conditioners extra length of narrow and wide pipes varies, and this should be borne in mind when cutting pipes.

5.3. Deburring cut end of the pipe
After cutting the tube by means of the pipe cutter on its inner side remain burrs. Before you flare the burrs must be removed. When deburring tube should be directed downwards as metal chips from entering the compressor air conditioner removes it from the system.

5.4. Beading
It is important that the inner surface of the flared end of the tube was shiny and had no scratches.

5.5. Pipeline sheathing
Regardless of the conditioner models wide and narrow lines must be insulated separately. In conditioners, cooling only, both broad and narrow lines are cooled during operation. The lack of isolation may cause scratches on the surface of the condensate lines, which in turn, will cause the loss of heat. In units working on the heating and cooling, broad and narrow lines are heated during operation. Both pipelines must be insulated in order to avoid the impact of heat to the surrounding air.

5.6 Precautions for flexible pipes
If the pipe will have a crack, it will adversely affect the operational and technical characteristics of the air conditioner. To the pipe is not broken, it is recommended to bend by hand. For bending pipes with diameters greater than 1/2 inch is recommended to use a tube bender.

6. Connecting pipe

Three rules: dryness, cleanliness and tightness.

1. Dryness. Make sure that the pipeline does not get wet.
2. Clean. Make sure that the pipeline did not get dirt, sand, etc.
3. Tightness. Make sure there are no refrigerant leaks. The application of a special sealant on the joints is a good way to prevent leaks.

6.1 Precautions when connecting piping.
To simplify connection is recommended to connect a pipe, and then narrow. Align coupling with union nut and carefully by hand a few times, turn the nut so that it engages smoothly with the union. Then, using a wrench, tighten the nut demanded effort. When working with bolts diameter 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) it is necessary to use a special key to the torque (16,5 Nm).

6.2 Traps Water
If external power is higher than the domestic, for the protection of water dripping through the line and getting water into the room, you must install a special trap.

7. Vent
Air removal is a procedure in which from a pipeline connecting the indoor and outdoor units, as well as from the air of the indoor unit is removed.

7.1. What caused the need for removing the air?
If bleeding is not made, it enters the cooling circuit, resulting in a sharp increase in pressure, increased power consumption and reduced power conditioner.
In addition, the moisture contained in the air can damage the insulation of the compressor motor and to the decomposition of refrigerant that will dramatically reduce the service life of the air conditioner.

7.2 The procedure for removal of air

1. Make sure that all pipes are properly connected
2. Connect a pressure gauge and a vacuum pump
3. Open the low-pressure valve
4. Turn on the vacuum pump and pressurize to - 101 kPa (it takes at least 15 minutes).
5. Hold the low-pressure valve in the fully open position, turn off the vacuum pump
6. Open the service valves wide and narrow pipelines
7. Disconnect manometer
8. Place the lid on the service valves wide and narrow pipelines
9. Screw the union nut of the pump nozzle.

8. Check for leaks
To check the reliability of pipe connections apply to these places lather. If leakage at this location bubbles appear.

9. Opening the service valve
After the leak check, fully open all service valves.

10. Connect the wiring
Strip the ends of the wire (about 15mm), and as far as possible, insert them into the appropriate connectors.

11. Installation of drainage pipes

11.1. Drain pipe Indoor
Set the indoor unit so that it is smooth and had no tilt forward or backward. Make sure the drain pipe has a downward slope. Make sure the drain pipe has no traps. If the drain pipe has long horizontal sections, insulate it tough PVC.

11.2. Implementation of the drain outside

If there are no more obstacles, no more need
If there is a need to install a special drainage system. In this case, use the supplied specifically for this connection and the knee cap. Outdoor unit must be installed on the stand, connecting to the knee does not touch the ground. Connecting the knee cap and placed inside a cardboard box.

11.3. Mud
As a result, clogging of the drain hose or the drain pan contamination may leak water. Contamination is usually caused by the following factors:

Temperature of 25-30 degrees Celsius
Water retention
Air pollution products of human activity
Presence in the water of certain fungi and bacteria. Therefore, it is important to make sure that the drain hose is directed downward; should also ventilate the room regularly and keep it clean.

12. Exterior finish

12.1. Reinforcement tape
Connect with a pipe, narrow piping, electrical cables and drain hose, then wrap them Ramiro tape, starting from the bottom and moving up. Each subsequent layer of tape should overlap about half the previous layer.

12.2. Isolation of the compounds
Do not forget to insulate the joints and bandaging their reinforcement tape. If the connectors for insulated, they will accumulate condensate.

12.3. Securing the pipeline
To fix the pipe is recommended to use the mounting clamps.

12.4. Applying sealant
Treat sealing all open space done in the wall of the hole, so that no water gets inside, and the wind is not blowing.

12.5. Cleaning
Finally, do the cleaning inside and outside the premises. This conditioner installation completed.
             How to insulate a loggia

To ensure the comfort of the apartment with an open balcony, must be thorough warm loggia - its floor, ceiling and walls.

How warm and how it depends on the result you want. More precisely, on how you want to insulate a loggia or balcony. Insulate a loggia is much easier and cheaper, but the warming of the same balcony - an event very costly.
In the heat loss affects thousands of factors:
• The party, which leaves the balcony (south or north);
• Do glazed balconies adjacent neighbors (just below, above);
• Masonry house;
• How well do drown in the house;

Proceedings
For insulation used a variety of materials - from 100- and even 150-mm mats of mineral wool (both hard and soft) to polystyrene and high-performance insulation foam from the modern, the thickness of which is much smaller.
Decorative finishing of the outer parapet plastic siding panels or also further warms the balcony.
All wooden parts are treated against rot and bacteria antiseptic (antiseptic People - linseed oil). The sale of a number of different antiseptic formulations.
Sex on the balcony covered evrodoskoy in appearance is not the board and plates made from a variety of wood, thickness from 25 to 40mm.
Such floor itself is good, but it will not be worse, if it lay a linoleum or carpet.

How to insulate gazebo:
• Turn the external enclosure (parapet) in a solid wall
• Set a special glazing system for loggias
• carry out waterproofing work
• insulate the loggia around perimetru- wall, ceiling, floor
• solve the problem heating in the cold time of the year I

The fundamental basis is warming pomescheniya- the only way it can be turned into a full-fledged land of the living space.

The weakest link is usually an external enclosure loggia, which is in contact with the street, that is, the parapet. He has to pass light and at the same time prevent the penetration of moisture, noise and cold.
Well, if the parapet of bricks, the common option - reinforced concrete slab, which is heat preservation and protection against noise and the rain is not conducive. Therefore, first of all, it should be as carefully as possible to close up the gap. For example, lay bricks, and if the gap is narrow - concreted.

The next task is more difficult - to make a parapet capital; it will have to load the window glazing, and this design has an impressive weight.

Stove, which keeps loggia, designed for a specific load. If the carrier capacity of balconies in old houses - 200 kg / m2, new - 400 kg / m2, then lodge boundary considerably higher. By building an additional internal wall can not be closer to the extreme limit, it is better to leave the "stock" to avoid an emergency situation, ie collapse. Brick and solid houses more "robust", but if the house panel, you have to be extremely careful. In any case, before you start any work on the balcony though, even on the balcony, you should contact the housing office and the engineer will tell the exact parameters that are allowed in a particular building. Typically, an additional internal wall constructed of lightweight materials: brick, concrete blocks or slabs.
Incidentally, it is very warm materials and such "parapet" wall, for example, a foam block (thickness is 7.5-10 cm), is 2.5 times stronger to resist cold than ordinary wall.

What should be the waterproofing
• maximum water repellency
• resistance to atmospheric and aggressive influences, that is, to mechanical, chemical and thermal loads
• environmental cleanliness and safety
• thermal stability and fire safety
• durability
• improving or maintaining the strength of the adjacent base from which she will be in contact
• permeability
• good adhesion (adhesion) with the material - contactee
• antiseptic properties, resistance to microflora
• low cost

If, nevertheless, a balcony, it can not do without the installation of the metal support structure.
The design is set against the parapet and have it opirajut glazing system. The very design of non-severe and set fast as you're done. True, this support system has special elements designed into the loggia which give it rigidity. They are quite large, and by choosing this option obviously need to agree with the fact that under his feet around the perimeter of the lodge will be a kind of "sills". Furthermore, it is known as a metal conducting cold. The design of the metal elements are always bridges on which the cold sneaks inside.

Conventionally, waterproofing materials belong to several classes: bitumen-polymer (mastic, roll insulation); film type, forming a protective layer on the substrate surface; insulation penetrating.

Everyone knows the usual roofing material on a cardboard base, impregnated with bitumen construction, it is often used in the past. Not because he was such a quality, and due to the lack of other options. He brings a lot of trouble, but its main drawback was short-lived. Today in the course of "waterproofing polymer-bitumen, modified roll (surfaced) material" that resembles roofing material, but the resemblance is only superficial.

In this isolation is completely different basis -Rugged not rotting, waterproof, glass-loknistye (glass fabric) or synthetic (polyester) materials using a polymer-bitumen binder. The best in this class roll insulation with polyester base, it is "mobile" and is not afraid to temperature changes. However, all these materials are too "dirty", require considerable experience in building the circulation and used in the regeneration of loggias except as an exception.

Film types are conventional polyethylene films of different densities. Separate good word deserves the most modern kind of waterproofing - penetrating. This whole group of materials such as cement or polymer based. There are two main types: liquid primer, which is applied to the surface carefully conventional roller or brush, and dry cement mixture, which was mixed with water and used in the form of a plaster layer of 2 to 5 mm.

Just enough waterproofing necessary steam and windscreen. In the first case, an paroizoliruyuschuyu film.

Even ordinary heat insulating layer to protect from excess moisture and steam and will last up to 30-40 years. It is important to observe the manufacturer's assembly and installation, and not to be confused with the wrong face of the (many-sided vapor barrier materials have conductivity of vapor, and if the parties confuse the insulated construction will turn into an isolated, that it is detrimental).
The material must be laid without bubbles and have ventilation holes. With a sharp decrease in temperature condensate - a normal phenomenon, and vents to help fight it. Water vapor retarder film can help protect an order of magnitude. Optimally suited for these purposes, a 200 micron film.

воскресенье, 22 ноября 2015 г.

The original flower pot with their hands


Materials:
- A small tin pail;
- A mixture of plaster for interior use;
- Mounting grid;
- Marine pebbles;
- A mixture of grout.
Instructions:
1. Take a small tin pail. Make the bottom of the bucket hole to drain excess fluid.
2. Apply the base (in this case, use ready-made mortar for interior) with a spatula. First, on the one hand. The basis is not applied with a thin and a thick layer of approximately 0.4-0.6 mm.
3. On the basis of put mounting grid. Vdavivaem it a little to the mix. So we will go to the stones evenly across the surface.
4. Start laying sea pebbles.
5. We reserve the bucket to dry.
6. Fill the mixture for grouting holes between the stones. Excess mixture after drying wash off sponge dipped in water.
7. Enjoy the results!

Stylish and creative shutters



суббота, 14 ноября 2015 г.

          NOT INTENDED BUT usefully


1. Shampoo
It has proven itself as a bubble bath.
Excellent wash delicate clothing, if there is no special powder (except that then you need a very long time to rinse).

2. Hair balm
Magnificent as shaving gels, especially - female.

3. Cream for the face or body
Better than you can imagine for cleaning shoes and any leather products.
Protects hands under the gloves in the cold autumn and winter, icy, softens heel for warm socks.
It moisturizes the hair ends, victims of chemical paint, hot sun or the bitter cold - just put on mochalistye tips evenly distributed.

4. Make-up Remover Lotion
Copes with signs tonalnika or lipstick on outerwear.
Easily cleans traces of hair dye on the forehead and behind the ears.

5. After Shave Gel
Apply on the pimple: cures and dries.

6. Eau de Toilette
Put ajar in the closet where you store off-season items, shoes, towels, bed linen.
Aromatiziruem bookcases.

7. Chapstick
Simulate drawing eyebrows.
Softens dry cuticles at home manicure.






      8 reasons to use fiberglass for walls

Today there are many different materials that are perfectly suited for wall decoration. This man always tries to give priority to high-quality products that can boast of its ecological compatibility and durability. In this respect, one of the best finishing materials are fiberglass. This article will try to list all the benefits of their use in a modern interior.

Reason №1. Environmentally friendly

Glass fiber made entirely of environmentally friendly natural materials. Achieved product of a glass fiber, based on the dolomite, limestone and quartz sand. During manufacture the glass acquires flexibility and increased durability. The absence of toxic elements in the glass fiber can be used even for finishing such an important room as a children's room.

Reason №2. Fire safety

In modern conditions, when safety is above all one of the main criteria when choosing a finishing material is resistant to open flames. In this regard, to steklooboyami no complaints - they do not burn, and upon exposure to elevated temperatures, do not emit any harmful substances.

Reason №3. Hypoallergenic and hygienic

This is a very important advantages fiberglass, because they do not accumulate static electricity. And most importantly, they do not "stick" the dust.

Reason №4. The air permeability and moisture

Glass wall in an interior bathroom

Glass wall can "breathe", which allows their use in high humidity areas. Few materials can boast of such an advantage. Excellent breathability reduces the likelihood of mold and mildew on the walls to a minimum, and the humidity is a guarantee that the wallpaper will not flake and peel off under the influence of moisture.

Reason №5. The ability to realize any fantasy

Glass fiber - great finish for painting. These products may be coated with any kind of paint - latex, acrylic or latex. With fiberglass, you can "play" with the texture of the walls, change the pattern and color. To make the interior depth, you can use matte paint. To emphasize the texture of glossy paint will help.

Finishing material can be painted in a variety of colors, and even apply a stencil pattern. If you want to keep the tissue structure, it is sufficient to treat the fiberglass special transparent varnish.

Reason №6. Strength

Of the material is very durable and resistant to various cleaning agents. This means that the glass fiber can be cleaned if necessary. But this feature only applies to high-quality materials, so saving is not recommended. It is recommended to buy only proven fiberglass manufacturers.

Reason №7. It can be applied to various surfaces

The advantages include ease of fiberglass gluing. They can be used for decorating domestic and industrial premises. In addition, the material can be repeatedly applied layers of paint (25-30 times). If necessary, you can hang steklooboyami any furniture. This bag of tricks is very useful when you want to hide unsightly wardrobe in a nice interior.

Reason №8. Easy pasting wall

Glass fiber is very easy to glue on the ceilings, doors, and, of course, walls. However, no intricate requirements for the application does not exist. It is enough to cover the wall of a colorless primer, and only to smear the walls, which must be clean and smooth.

conclusions

Thus, glass - this is an excellent choice for demanding people, who know the value of quality products for interior decoration.

четверг, 29 октября 2015 г.

               Choose a floor covering

Flooring is an important component of the complex repair. Today, the most urgent decisions are linoleum, laminate and parquet. Each type of coverage has its advantages and disadvantages, so the choice depends on personal preference and the planned budget.

Laminate flooring - modern and high-quality building material, which allows you to quickly and reliably arrange the floor in commercial premises and in the living room. Laminate board has excellent performance: it is resistant to mechanical deformation, easy to clean, very tolerant of load, if necessary, dismantled and re-installed. If done correctly, the installation of such a floor, not only looks great, but also provides good sound insulation.

According to the intensity of use laminate is divided into two groups: commercial and residential premises. Within each category there is a division in the model with a different degree of wear resistance. To view the range of laminated boards, you can click on the link, a wide range of decor and textures allows you to choose the design for any type of interior.

The design is dominated by the texture of wood or imitation stone, thanks to modern technology the appearance of the floor, made of laminate retains its appeal during the whole period of operation.

The upper level of the laminate is a layer of acrylic or melamine resin, it protects the surface from chips, scratches, mechanical damage, prevents the penetration of moisture inside. The base layer is composed of high-quality particle board, it provides the strength and reliability of the entire structure, namely the thickness of this layer depend insulating properties floor. It also affects the ability of the coating to protect the premises from unnecessary noise.

The bottom layer is the impregnation of the polymer resin, it protects the board from the influence of moisture, it provides little mobility, which compensates for any slight unevenness in the floor.

As laminate flooring has excellent hygienic characteristics: it does not emit harmful substances, fireproof, easy to clean, hypoallergenic, and its surface is perfect for people who care about their health. The material is resistant to rot, is not exposed to mold, it does not emit odors.
                   Sawdust, as a heater

Many people have their own suburban house because of its warming issue is always topical. Particularly acute, this problem arises with the onset of winter. So that winter does not bring disappointment in housing need in the warm worry about home insulation.

So for insulation you can use various thermal insulation, but most are a cheap chips (wood waste).

Sawdust, as a thermal insulator, used everywhere today. But do it right is not so easy as it seems at first glance. Sawdust can find in any wood processing enterprises. Before the introduction of chips, they should not soak scented varnish. This is done in order to have at home not settle in the mouse, because the smell repels them, with this method even more effective everyday rat poison.

After impregnation, the chips they need to dry because wet sawdust will rot inside your home that will bring great difficulties. The time needed for drying sawdust, can be carried out with the utility. For example, you can start preparing the walls or the floor (that part of the structure that you want to warm) to the insulation. For the preparation of the floor must be removed flooring (when working with the floor) and throw a "naked" walls with insulation walls.

If you just need a floor insulation layer rovnenko sprinkle sawdust height of approximately 5 cm. Even more time consuming insulation walls. In this case, it will be necessary plywood, sawdust and close to a lot of patience to correctly fill chips, because they can sleep out of plywood. But it is best to house warming conduct in full (floor, ceiling, walls) because the insulation of the 1st element will give a huge effect.
Tips for waterproofing bathrooms in a wooden house

To waterproofing bathroom in a wooden house was really good, and the abundance of moisture that there is going in large numbers, are not adversely affected the design of the structure, it is necessary to properly equip.

If earlier it was quite a challenge, but today, when the construction market offers a variety of materials, with proper and competent approach to business to solve this problem is quite simple.

And all the work with the appropriate tools and patience, you can make your own hands.

In a wooden house waterproofing bathroom be sure to perform both the floor and ceiling and wall.

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing of the wall, which is in direct contact with the bath.
How is the waterproofing of the floor

Almost all the houses are made of wood, with wooden floors, respectively, and to the subfloor is also used wooden materials.

Today it is not a big problem when using high-quality waterproof materials such floor can be even is equipped with a heating system, including water.

For houses built of wood, there are several different variants of the device floor, namely: concrete screed and lags.

The first version of the specialists do not recommend, since it greatly aggravates the whole construction of the structure in general and contributes to the escape of heat from the premises.

In addition, the concrete base floor waterproofing is much more difficult to perform than on the basis of a floor made of a lag.

Therefore, a wooden house is recommended to equip the flooring on joists, and its waterproofing done with the use of special materials.

All the necessary work in this case it is possible to make the hands.

The first step is to perform a complete waterproofing the entire basement under the floor.

This can be done using a special mixture of plaster, which includes a variety of polymeric materials.

At work pay special attention to locations near the treatment of plaster walls. The same plaster can be used for surface treatment of the walls in the bathroom of a wooden house.

Furthermore, it should be using to build a small red brick special bars, after which the basic design to make installation of wood stoves.
"

It is mandatory to use all logs must be pre-treated with special antiseptic and allow them to dry well.

After that the installation finished lags on brick columns, in accordance with the technology.

Before you will be made laying floors themselves, necessarily need to carefully handle all the materials used special waterproofing layer.

Many experts strongly recommend the use of multiple layers of the waterproofing coating simultaneously.

For this purpose, perfect bitumen varnish, designed specifically for sex. It creates a timber for a quality protective layer and enhances its elasticity.

In addition, the floor is suitable for waterproofing paint and primer, which, among its main features, further enhances the strength of the wood material.

For effective waterproofing of the front surface of the floor using different types of parquet lacquers. Also for this purpose, you can use all kinds of stains.

In addition, the complex is permitted to use different layers of waterproofing to the floor.

Waterproofing treatment of walls

An important point in the regeneration of the bathroom in a wooden house is a waterproof wall finish.

Such waterproofing should be performed before the moment when the very walls are lined with an obverse base, for example, strips or drywall.

To do this, use a variety of materials. The base of the walls can be clad special plastic film having a high density.

To do this with the help of her stapler carefully fastened around the perimeter of the walls in the bathroom.

It is worth noting that in this case there is a need to think about the arrangement of ventilation, otherwise the bathroom in the room can observe a kind of greenhouse effect, which soon will have an impact on the surface of the walls.

As a base coat for walls in wooden houses often use the combined method, in which the walls are made in a lump of wood, and in the most humid areas are faced with tiles.

For waterproofing the walls in the bathroom of a wooden house, you can use a variety of materials.

For example, moisture resistant glass provide magnesium sheets, which are attached to the bottom wall.

Also suitable for this purpose special Akvapanel which consist of reinforced expanded polystyrene.

One of the advantages of this new material is that the panels themselves can be given absolutely any form, and besides, they are not deformed and does not overload the structure of the building.

Another effective way to perform waterproofing the walls - the use of liquid glass.

The layer of material applied to the surface of the wooden wall, giving it elasticity, and in addition having enhanced antiseptic properties.

Apply this composition on the walls of the best in several layers, particular attention is paid to the grouting.

To improve the waterproofing of the walls in the bathroom wooden structure can also use the so-called surface waterproofing.

It is a mixture of bitumen and polymer materials. They are applied over the entire base, especially carefully in the corners of walls and in the joints with floor and ceiling.

For the waterproofing of wooden walls in the bathroom are also suitable cement-polymer mastic. Their structure waterproof drive components and connecting elements that perfectly fill all the seams.

For more strength applied to the wooden wall waterproofing give glass cloth mesh, which must be placed between the base and the wall facing layer.

For better sealing joints of the walls and their joints in the area of ​​the ceiling and floor it is recommended to glue a layer of special sealing tape.

Make a waterproof bathroom wooden building with his own hands, everyone can.
Waterproofing of ceiling

The bathroom has a wooden house to improve waterproofing properties recommended ceiling.

The device is of the ceiling will help to effectively protect all hardwood floors from moisture.

In addition, under it there is a possibility to hide completely unnoticed as the ventilation system, and many other communications.

First we need to treat the base of the ceiling with special protective means and give it to dry completely.

As the face layer wooden ceiling in the bath can be recommended to use a moisture-resistant drywall or special gipsovolokno, which will provide a high waterproofing.

As the profiles under such coverage ceiling is better to use the ones that are designed for use on the street and have a protective coating against corrosion.

Assembled so you can paste over the ceiling steklooboyami that provide efficient hydraulic protection.

For effective sealing of the ceiling in the bathroom wooden building, it is better to use several layers of adequate protection.

So, it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire surface of the ceiling and to treat it with primer.

Next, you need to use bitumen mastic, with particular attention in the processing of this material is given a waterproofing of cracks, corners and places near which hosts various communications.

After drying putty, you can proceed to the application of the next layer of waterproofing. In the case of flat sheeting mount his lap.

Only then can you start the final finishing of the ceiling in the bathroom.

All necessary work on waterproofing the ceiling can be done without too much difficulty with his own hands.
An important point during the works on waterproofing bathroom in a wooden house is the improvement of ventilation.

Only with this system all the moist air will not stay in the room and would be free to leave it.

To do this it is best to use a forced-air and exhaust mechanical ventilation, which is easy to assemble yourself.

In the area of ​​the ceiling will need to secure the two tubes, one - for the air flow, and the other - for the air outlet to the outside. On both ends of the ducts must be secured special protective funnel.

Next - made assembly and installation of the fan grilles at the entrances of the ventilation ducts.


вторник, 27 октября 2015 г.

          Replacing household chemicals

1. Mustard can wash the dishes! It is better to buy mustard flour. Pour on a wet sponge and three fatty dish - well washed!

2. The universal tool for cleaning around the house - a mixture of water mixed with vinegar, plus a few drops of lavender oil.

3. To wash the windows, dilute vinegar and water 1: 5, apply to the glass and wipe with paper or a soft cloth. Vinegar can be replaced by lemon juice.

4. To combat lime stains on the sink, tub, toilet water them with vinegar, sprinkle a little baking soda and let stand. Then they are easy to clean with a brush.

5. Whiten fabric can be as follows: 10 liters of water add 2 table. tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide and 1 table. a spoonful of ammonia.

6. Baking soda - oven cleaner. To remove the fat leave overnight a quarter cup of ammonia in the oven the next morning, wipe the baking soda. Effective cleaning is also more warm plate salt.

7. Clean the sewer use salt. It must fill the pipe and rinse with hot water.

8. Glass can be polished ammonia and soap.

9. A mirror with a mixture of vinegar and water in equal proportions.

10. Surprisingly corn starch works well for carpet cleaning. It needs to throw and then vacuum the surface.

How to clean the washing machine

        How to clean the washing machine

Pour 2 cups of white vinegar into the washing machine and run a long wash cycle with hot water without the addition of clothing and other detergents. Let the machine run for a few minutes to prepare a solution, and then temporarily stop the program execution to give him time to act on the dirt inside the tank.

After an hour, remove the washing machine to pause and wait for the wash. Then, run a short wash cycle to wash away the remnants of the solution. Vinegar will clear the washing machine from scale, remove soap and dirt accumulation, will help get rid of bacteria and odor. You can replace the vinegar with two cups of chlorine bleach, but it is more toxic agent.

After draining the water, wipe the inside of the door and the rubber seal around it with a soft cloth dampened with a mixture of equal amounts of water and vinegar. Sealers pay special attention, as they are often a trap for dirty water and various deposits. Then go over it with a damp cloth and wipe dry.

The described method can get rid of the musty smell that is often heard from the washing machine after washing. And to prevent the re-emergence of his sometimes when washing towels, add a glass of vinegar and wash them at high temperatures. This will not hurt a towel and help disinfect them. Also, with the removal of odors it copes baking soda, but it is not as disastrous for odor-causing bacteria.
                Dry mixes for the floor

For screeds and self-leveling flooring mixture used. These mixtures after mixing with water and intensive mixing, thanks to the combined action of plasticizing additives and conservation, have properties of "liquid body." They may spread under its own weight, forming a flat surface. At the same time they have not observed sedimentation - separation with separation of water up and settling of aggregate. The use of polymeric modifiers provides high durability floor.

In mixtures for screeds as binder used Portland cement and gypsum, but for Exterior - Portland cement or aluminous cement. Experts advise to choose a non-shrink dry mixture. They are rapidly gaining strength and withstand the load to pass within 8-10 hours after application, and on its thermal insulation properties are very close to the wood.

воскресенье, 25 октября 2015 г.

                             Color and pattern

A few simple tips when choosing wallpaper for a room:

• Dark wallpaper is very good for bedrooms because with their help easy to create the warm and cozy room in the house. With dark walls more organically combined furniture in dark colors (wenge, chocolate), but also a simple and light furniture creates a striking contrast with the walls.
• The vertical stripe visually increase the ceiling height, but a bit narrow the wall.
• The horizontal bar on the contrary, push the wall, but the ceiling will seem lower than it actually is.
• Large drawing can be used to spacious rooms, and for small rooms is better to choose wallpaper with a small unobtrusive patterns that visually enlarge the living space.
• Wallpaper brilliantly under different lighting help to create a different specular effects - from cold to warm hues. Due to the imposition of gloss to a matte surface it would seem that the pattern consists of several layers, the amount will be, which is also visually increase the space of the room.
Try to paste one of the walls of the bedroom, bedside,
active ornament, and the rest of the walls painted in the favorite color

The desired shade

Not to be mistaken with a hint when choosing wallpaper in the shop, you need to take a sample wallpaper and move away from the bright light in that part of the room where the light is more subdued. Venture out with the samples does not make sense, because the apartment is usually no direct sunlight and artificial light is used. Of course, it is necessary first to determine the order of light bulbs installed in the room - cold or warm, and then find the appropriate lighting in the store.

ACTUAL REASONS

Do not be afraid to experiment! Now it is not difficult, because a choice of several options for win-win combination of wallpaper, proposed by designers as a bright accent pattern and neutral companion to him. The new season of fashion colors with textile ornaments, a variety of options cells and strips of denim, lace motifs and paisley (in cucumber), classic medallions and delicate floral patterns embossed air as if embroidered on cloth wallpaper.

PAPER AND interlining

Paper wallpaper popular for many years, are widely used in the decoration and now, that is. To. Have a number of advantages, environmentally friendly and allow the walls to breathe. But, of course, modern technology is rapidly evolving, and developers offer new types of wallpaper are more comfortable in the glueing. To this type belong, for example, non-woven wallpaper. Unlike paper when gluing them should strictly follow the instructions, cut into strips before gluing and apply the adhesive to a detailed sheet, non-woven wallpaper you just need to attach to the wall, smeared with glue and trim the excess pieces only after comparing the bands in drawing joint to joint. Fleece - an environmentally friendly material made from cellulose and polyester, so it can be glued and children's rooms, and the room where the living and working allergies.
Why fall off over time, tiles in the bathroom

Laying tiles, most often, is one of the finishing operations decoration. Therefore it is very disappointing when after a while it starts to fall off suddenly or covered with a network of cracks. All the more so to repair the defective portion is difficult.

How can you avoid such unfortunate incidents?

To do this you need to know the reasons why tiles may fall off from the wall or floor.

Reasons peeling tile from the bottom

The reasons on which tile can "leave home place" quite a lot: do not use a suitable adhesive. It is essential that glue was properly selected in accordance with the kind of the surface on which the tile is glued, and the type of the tile. Now there are many types of glue, so you need to consider the choice of with great attention.
The type of tiles depends on the speed with which it absorbs water. This is important, since the composition of adhesives have almost any cement which hardens on contact with water. And if the tiles quickly absorbs water, the glue just does not have time to gain strength. Watch out for the lifetime of the adhesive. If the adhesive overexpose, the tiles are not glued properly. All data are adhesive on its packaging. If you are not a great expert on tiling, it is best to dilute the glue in small portions, to have time to develop it within the time specified in the instructions. The cause of poor adhesion is adhesive and the surface to which the tile is glued, various additives can be introduced into the concrete composition in order to improve its properties or to accelerate hardening.
Sometimes tiles mounted on a poorly cleaned surface - such as old paint, or even the previous layer of tiles. It would not have praised various primers that have "death" to draw the glue to the wall, not worth the risk. It is better to spend time and effort to clean the surface of the old coating. In addition, it should be clean, dust-free, with no oil and rust stains. Often the cause of chipping tiles becomes irregular surface. Some artists, in order to accelerate the work, the tiles are mounted on poorly leveled surface, adding in some places a little more glue. It is also unacceptable. Glue is applied to the surface layer of a specific thickness specified in the instructions thereto. Too thick a layer causes deterioration of adhesion between the adhesive and the wall and, respectively, and tiles. The reason for peeling tiles may be incorrect adhesive agent. Some craftsmen, rather than apply the adhesive evenly over the entire surface of the tile with a notched trowel, apply it to the middle of the tiles slide and simply press it to the wall. Or even applied glue dot. All this reduces the contact area of ​​the tiles with the adhesive and lead to the fact that over time it begins to fall off in some places. Poor The dried before installing the tile surface can cause a marriage to work. Many modern tile adhesives applied on a dry surface. Therefore, after the treatment of the walls or floor primer is necessary as it should be dry. If, for example, dividing wall is thin and poorly anchored, tile may fall off. The new houses are not recommended to glue the tiles at once, you need to wait at home shrinkage. If all the work is done, the shrinkage, when the design is shifted relative to one another, several rows of the tiles can simply "cut off".

Causes of cracking tiles
There are also several reasons for cracking the tile:

Poor tiles.
From this no one is guaranteed, because the low-quality goods can be bought on the cheap and at great expense. Therefore, purchase materials for repair only in proven stores. Poor-quality gluing tiles - not on level ground or voids. In this situation, when the surface is accidentally pressed tile may break at the point where is located under it, "hump". If emptiness beneath it, just break off a piece of tile. This often happens with the corners of the tile.

The cause of cracks in the tile may be too quick drying glue, so that it simply "torn apart" tile. It is often found in areas with under-floor heating, which is lined with tiles.
Too early inclusion of heat can ruin all the work. How to repair the surface, if the tiles fell off What if the beauty of the room broken several dumps plitochki? In this situation, you need to figure out the reason why the tiles fell off. It is also possible to tap neighboring tiles - if the sound is muffled, it is likely, under them are empty and can be expected to follow "plitkopada." In this situation it is sometimes necessary to completely remove tiles, and repeat the work, but without mistakes.

If your research was successful, and the adjacent tiles are fixed well, then you can proceed to repair necessary to scrape the old tile grout, clean tiles from residues of glue. This should be done carefully, otherwise the tiles can not "take the place". The place where the tile, remove glue residue and the entire surface incised with something sharp. The depth of the scratches should not be less than 5 mm. Apply glue to the wall and on the tile thickness of about 2 mm. Insert the tile in place, lightly press. Let the adhesive dry for days, and wipe the seams. If the tiles fell and split, it will have to go to the store to pick up the pieces and the like. It is clear that you do not want to buy a pack of glue alone plitochki.
In this situation, you can use: A mixture of cement with PVA glue. Keeps well and then remove the tile without punch fail. The mixture was enamel paint with cement. It should have the consistency of sour cream. Promazyvat need and wall tiles.
How to choose a wire in their section and power

Sizing cables is an important step in the design of power supply a house or apartment. With insufficient wire section is overheated, which can lead to melting of the insulation and short-circuit, the consequences of which are unpredictable.

Conductor cross-sections are selected for the value flowing through them and the current can be determined from tables or calculated. Table section of the conductor wiring requirements are specified in the "Rules for Electrical Installation" (PUE). In the same normative document contains a table with the maximum permissible currents depending on the conductor cross-section and operating conditions. Below is a table of cases, most often encountered when installing wiring in houses and apartments.

Keep in mind that, according to the SAE-section of copper wires for homes must be at least 2.5 square meters. mm and 1.5 square meters. mm after them. Before wiring to examine the situation of the SAE on houses. Compliance with these requirements will allow them to improve the reliability of power supply and avoid claims of Energonadzor.

Rated load current wires As the table shows, the nominal load current of wires depends on the cooling of the conductors. Wire, laid in the walls, channels and pipes are not blown by air, so cool slowly. Thick wire transfer heat worse than thin and kept smaller current density. The current density is determined by dividing the allowable current to the wire size. For aluminum wires it is within 5 - 10 A / sq. mm, for copper - 7 - 15 A / sq. mm. Multiplying the current density of the load current can determine the required wire size.

Use for wiring the flat copper conductors - they are less oxidized and do not break at the joints, so are more reliable.

The use of aluminum in hazardous occupations prohibited without reason. Calculation of cable cross-section of the power consumers of electricity Calculation of wire sizes to start with the definition of the total power load on the electrical network. It is especially important to take into account the major power consumers, having the following characteristics: iron - 1 - 2 kW; washing machine - up to 2 kW; vacuum cleaner - 1 - 2 kW; water heater - about 2 kW; electric - 1 - 2 kW; Microwave - 0.6 - 2 kW; electric - up to 2 kW; Air conditioning - up to 3 kW; fridge - about 1 kW; electric heating boiler - 2 - 5 kW; lighting - power one light bulb, multiplied by the number of them. Power electrical appliances can be specified in the instruction manual. Calculate the total power of the consumers, and dividing its value by 220 volts, define the load current.

Further tables or find current density wire size.

When calculating the power you need to keep in mind that not all consumers are included at the same time - if the boiler is heating, air conditioning, no one uses it. This fact can be taken into account by multiplying by a factor of the total power demand. Empirically it found that for flats with a total power of 14 kW it is 0.8 to 20 kW - 0.65 kW to 50 kW - 0.5. For example, consider the selection of cable cross-section from the junction box to the kitchen outlets. The kitchen includes a refrigerator 1 kW, dishwasher - 1 kW electric - 2 kW microwave - 0.8 kW electric oven - 2 kW and air conditioning - 2 kW.

The total capacity is 8.8 kW. Multiply this value by a factor of 0.8 in demand and obtain 7.04 kW. Translate kilowatts in watts (1 kW = 1000 W) and determines the load current: I = 7040/220 = 32 A. As the table flush select twisted pair copper wire cross section Q3. mm or aluminum - 5 sq. mm. The same section we obtain by dividing current to the average values ​​of its density. Sometimes available unknown wire section. Knowing a diameter section readily determined by the formula S = 0,785D2, where D - diameter of the conductor. For stranded wires result is multiplied by 0.785.

How to properly prepare the wall to shtroblenie under wiring and what options exist shtrobleniya, tell our article, previously placed in the group.

вторник, 20 октября 2015 г.

The lack of natural light. What to do?


We all noticed that, in the autumn-winter period, many often a worsening of mood, decreased immunity, drowsiness, lowering efficiency. Often, reducing the body's defenses can be caused by lack of sunlight, which is necessary to carry out metabolic processes, the functioning of the central nervous system and the formation of vitamin balance in the body. Our article will tell you how to deal with the lack of natural light, providing itself vigor of mind and body.

As you know, in our homes use natural and artificial lighting. Natural (natural) light can vary not only depending on the time of year, but the time of day and weather conditions. Of course, great importance is also the area of ​​residence.

In our country, there are standards for natural and artificial lighting of various spaces according to their purpose. In practice, however, the appearance of dark areas of the apartment to the constructive decisions of buildings is not uncommon.

In addition to the shortcomings of planning the level of natural light is influenced by external factors. It can be residential or office and commercial building, which was built near your home, or heavily overgrown trees and shrubs under windows that prevent the penetration of sunlight into your apartment.

What to do in such a situation? Increase the number and wattage of artificial lighting? It is not an option, since no lamps and chandeliers can not "make" on all the functions of natural light.

Once in the room there is a lack of sunlight, the following ways to fill it.

Harnessing the power of planning premises
To visually expand the space and fill it with light, you can remove some of the walls in the room that are not load-bearing structures. Perhaps the union of a kitchen-dining room, kitchen, living room, living room, corridor, etc. Studio generally consists of one room, divided into specific functional areas.

If you desperately need a clear delineation of the space into separate rooms, can be applied in interior partitions do not reach the ceiling, or translucent glass or plastic partitions that do not hinder the passage of sunlight.

Sometimes capital partitions make through holes (openings) that are either left open, you arrange the border or close the glass. Glass can be: smooth or embossed surface structure; transparent or opaque; monochrome or patterned.

In recent years, designers have adopted the role of a glass partition large aquariums. This option looks great in the interior of hotels, bars and restaurants. Although set in the apartment septum aquarium dare not everyone, and the room should be big enough in size to such a partition seemed appropriate in this interior.

Window openings
As you know, the sun's rays penetrate into the room through a window and balcony openings in the walls of the building. Therefore, if your apartment is clearly a shortage of natural light, do not use tinted glass glazing. Do not clutter the windowsills flower pots, vases and other items. Use curtains of light, air and light fabrics (for example, organza).

Using the abilities of different surfaces Fluorescence
The lighter interior decoration, the more reflective the ability it has. The ceilings in many apartments have a white color, which is very rarely used for wall and floor coverings. If you need to increase natural lighting, use light and warm colors in the decoration of the entire room.

The same applies to the color of the interior furniture. Excess light tones can be compensated for the use of any element of a dark color. For example, furniture can be made of dark wood with light upholstery. In addition, some of the furniture can be made of glass or polished surface reflects sunlight well.

A good option for the floor is laminated flooring or ceramic tile.

Textiles used in the interior as well is of great importance. Light colors curtains, bedspreads, decorative pillows and a silk carpet on the floor will contribute to filling the space solar energy and help you maintain a good mood even on cloudy autumn days.

Finally, the huge role played by the interior mirror, with which you can not only reflect the sunlight and direct it in the right direction.

The compact kitchen. Options


The compact kitchen help out when you have a small apartment. Kitchen in small apartments are very small and not always all together - what has to sacrifice something. Manufacturers kitchens think about it and offer you a couple of examples of compact kitchens.

Task kitchen manufacturers - to make it as functional and compact. And they did it. Look at this picture, you feel that this is an ordinary computer table, but in fact it is a multifunctional table with stuffing.

As you can see, it is enough to lift the countertop and below we can see a special coating (worktop) for cooking. Also here there are sink and faucet for washing vegetables, dishes and so on. Note that as originally occupied the square table, so many left, but we already have the kitchen table.

View from the top of the table and the door is open, give us to understand that on the table have already built an electric stove, built-in desk and refrigerator space for kitchen utensils.

This is one version of the kitchen, which does not require a lot of space ...

The next option is similar, but here the filling table is more adapted for the same dishes. As you can see in the table, you can build anything you want, such as a refrigerator can be replaced with a dishwasher.

But wait, in addition to the table, we can fill the space above it. There can arrange these shelves here and put them on the microwave. And all this to close the door. Below you can make a backlight and can think through the hood.

Here's how it will look together. Kitchen area will take at a minimum, at the same time, such a compact table will be enough to prepare food.


суббота, 17 октября 2015 г.

Manifold for underfloor heating - advice on selection and installation


Manifold for underfloor heating, which is one of the most important components of the water floor heating circuit, is responsible for maintaining, preset thermostat, the temperature of the coolant.

Without it - it's hard to imagine the effective operation of the system, and full room heating.

Underfloor heating has a number of advantages compared with traditional radiators.

They appreciated in European countries where underfloor considered widespread, for example - in Norway in this way are heated more than half the buildings.

Unlike conventional steam heating radiators, air rises from the floor heating up, evenly distributing the heat around the room, thereby eliminating the possibility of drafts.

Thermal energy consumption, compared to conventional heat sinks - below 20 per cent, at the same temperatures.

Finally, the floor heating system does not spoil the design of their presence, because it is hidden from your eyes.

It is a network of mini-pipeline which is mounted within the space between the floor covering and the floor surface.

Pipelines filled circulating warmed coolant which, depending on the design features of the system of floor heating can be represented with a solution of ethylene glycol antifreeze, or water.
Choose collector

Before choosing a collector for water floor heating, it is necessary to coordinate it with the scheme of the system of floor heating.

This is due to two factors:
Firstly, the cost of distribution manifold floor heating;
Secondly, it depends on the security of the system.

The objective is to keep the reservoir coolant temperature within certain limits, which sets the value of the thermostat.

The heated and cooled thermal fluids are mixed together in a mixing manifold assembly - the main element of it.

Today, not only the collector for warm water floor, but mixing units to have a lot of modifications, the choice of which is dictated by the ease of installation and practicability.

Collector primarily selected for a particular system, taking into account that should be provided the necessary pressure created by the flow direction.

For the manufacture of some types of collectors used - brass, others - stainless steel. This is one of the factors influencing the formation of prices and causing the choice of one or another model.

The second important indicator that should be considered when selecting the collector is - the degree of complexity of the model.

For example, you can stop their attention on the collectors which incorporate a sensor to monitor coolant flow, drain valve and bleed screw, which increases system reliability.

To date, the collector node of thermoregulation is not considered a rarity.

It meets many different modifications having in its composition a variety of gauges, temperature sensors, components for air release, flow control and other accessories.

So, with so-called collector - flowmeter is a complete mixing unit. By using two thermometers can avoid heat losses in the system.

In each of the heating circuits is given its temperature thanks to a special device with brass comb and flowmeters.

This collector are:
thermal head, manned submersible probe;
thermostatic mixing valve;
Case for a special thermometer;
air vent.

The objective of the thermostatic valve is timely supply of hot water a certain volume.

This avoids all sorts of faults in the system. Thermostat with immersion probe tracking workflows in the system - to prevent all kinds of faults.

On the other hand, the large number of proposals for the collectors of the "warm floor" - one of the reasons that the buyer can not determine the choice.

If you choose, the most important thing to pay attention to the following points - the volume of the room where the installation of floor heating will, for what purpose and who will use the room, and of course the most important thing - the budget for the purchase.

For systems operating in the areas of small size, it will be enough plastic collector. For it is not subject to special requirements for thermoregulation.

Relatively inexpensive to buy manifold for underfloor heating, the kit which includes - and the meter is adjustable.

The latest technology is a group of floor heating mixers, along with the flowmeter having five outputs Icma.

Due to the possibility of balancing the circuit and accurate temperature-controlled, a high reliability of the system "warm floor".

Manifold for underfloor heating pump is effective in the sense that it is carried out by circulation of the coolant circuit.

Connection - Instructions chart

Connecting the collector floor heating is performed after the laying of pipes made for the coolant and manifold mounted cabinet.

Depending on the willingness of the owners of the apartment or house, collector ran into a wall cabinet or set otherwise, the main thing - that it did not create discomfort, but at the same time to it should be convenient connection pipes.

Considered below wiring diagram allows the collector to make the connection between the collector pipes and the boiler with his hands.

Connection

According to the algorithm, the installation begins with the installation of the collector shut-off valves (faucets), along with a thermometer.

It is much more convenient to buy a collector set as complete as it includes already have shut-off valves on all existing circuit outputs, including - supply and "tank line."

Because of this, not only to facilitate the installation of underfloor heating manifold, connecting pipes, coolants, but also has the ability to produce the desired shutdown circuit, without affecting the others.

Collectors of this type let manufacturers Valtec, Watts and REHAU.

For interconnecting the collectors, valves and pipes - used compressor fittings or special connectors, consisting of a brass nut, the bearing sleeve and the clamping ring.

It is not always connected elements are of the same diameter, in this case - can not do without-fitting adapter.

In its simplest form, is represented by a simple construction of sewers and stop valves.

Thus, the installation of underfloor heating manifold in a simplified form as follows:
to the manifold by a stopcock is connected the supply pipe and return stroke;
a collector connected to the pipes, heat-transfer system "warm floor".

The above diagram is a simplified version, which is used very rarely because of the fact that there is a dependence on the boiler - is to reduce the flow of coolant is immediately lowered floor heating.

Instructions for connecting

The modern circuit has a full adjustment of underfloor heating manifold.

They contain the following elements:
pumping and mixing unit (or a 3-way mixer);
air vent;
drain valve;
circulation pump, contributing to the movement of the coolant in the system

This arrangement allows the complete control of the system.
Doing their own hands

The collector floor heating with his hands - a very popular topic, which is explained by efficiency and deserved popularity of this type of outdoor heaters.

Very often artists with no experience of such work repels the complexity and difficulty of installation.

Homemade collector for underfloor heating should meet the design features underfloor heater.

The cheapest one homemade considered collector composed of check valves and having no possibility of adjustment.

Driving collector for underfloor heating with a connection of the control valve requires a greater investment, but - in every single branch of the coolant flow rate can be adjusted.

In other words, if necessary, for each room is possible to make adjustments of uniform heating.

In rare cases, it is advisable to use servos, as a complement to the valve, it is possible to automate the process.

The device is water reservoir floor as standard incorporates a supply and return manifolds.

Origin (another name - pressure) using a micrometer valve closes and opens the circuit at some point.

Control valves are adjusted return manifold pressure drop.

In practice - often fails to ensure that all circuits are equally had the same length and the load.

It is clear that due to the fact that the underfloor heating pipes are of different length - is uneven heating of the room.

There is a need for balancing the water supply control valves implemented.
Where to buy and how much?

The price collector for underfloor heating determined by the type of material used in its manufacture and the number of circuits.

The manufacturer guarantees the normal operation within two years. This is possible because high-quality materials and workmanship.

On the mechanical elements, a five-year warranty period.

Buy a collector for underfloor heating is most conveniently via express delivery, which requires an order in the online store.